Chrysanthemum in Course 2

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“Chrys-tham-them-mum… Chrystham-them-mum.. Chrystham-themum!” We were on the first course of our 9 course Japanese dinner (what were we thinking, seriously??) and our server, a cute, little Japanese woman dressed beautifully in a kimono, was explaining an ingredient on the menu, chrysanthemum. We taught her how to say the English word, and she repeated it over and over. As she slide out of the room (literally slid, bowing coming in and out of the sliding doors to our room) we could hear her walking down the hallway to fetch the next course saying “Chrys-tham-them-mum… Chrystham-them-mum.. Chrystham-themum!”

I was completely filled to the brim after course 4, but we pushed onward. After two hours, we were both ready to stand up off the floors, stretch our legs, and go to bed. Chad and I are eating meat on this trip ‘traveltarians’ or ‘flexitarians’ (though we’re mostly sticking with fish) and this was a meat heavy meal so we were both feeling it. I think I’m getting enough meat for the rest of my life and I’m really missing vegetables. I’ll be happy to be going back to vegetarian once we’re back.

Gora, Hakone was so incredibly relaxing after Tokyo. It rained the entire time we were there, which was really nice because it kept the air cool and we went in the hot springs for most of the night and early morning. We also swam in the pool, which as filled with dragonflies. We read books and relaxed before we fell asleep on our futons.

Treat Yo'Self

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“I like this one because it reminds me of the Hamburgerlar.” We’re inside a Picasso exhibit on the side of a mountain in Hakone, Japan and Chad is explaining to me why he likes a specific Picasso portrait. I start laughing, a bit too loudly, and we continue out into the Open Air Art Museum that sits next to our hotel on the side of a mountain.

We’re in Hakone, in the mountains close to Mount Fuji (which we could almost see from the train but weather is cloudy). We’ve made the mistake of spending far too much money on a ryoken that has a private onsen in the room but the deed has been done and we’re going to enjoy ourselves whether we like it or not. We’re here for the night, which will be nice because we need some relaxation after our Tokyo adventure. We are preparing to eat a nine course meal for dinner served in our room and then enjoy the hot springs. What can I say, we really splurged… (I’m looking for freelance work if anyone is hiring!! haha)

We ate a small lunch at a place called Woody’s, a tiny restaurant dedicated to Toy Story. The town we are in, Gora, is a really quiet town with just a few streets so after lunch, we stumbled upon a brewery and had to try a beer. It was delicious and a perfect way to spend our afternoon before our onsen experience. We’re in Hakone for one night of pure bliss and then onwards to Kyoto.

Melancholy Lunch Break

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As I sit here in this cafe, taking a break from being a tourist of Tokyo, I can’t help but feel sad. I feel sad because I’ve been offline for a bit and just peaked at some news, US and global.

Wow, just so incredibly, catastrophically depressing. The headlines are like nothing I’ve ever imagined I’d read in my lifetime, and it’s not just national headlines that are breaking my heart. The shift to the far right throughout multiple nations in the world, when we need desperately a progressive global society because of looming climate change, is almost too much to take. As the Amazon burns, so does our human progress.

The part that really kills me is that we’re now so far away now from fixing the actual problems. This isn’t the first time in history obviously and I’m shocked that we really can’t learn from our global past to see that what’s happening now is not sustainable, will not be joyful, will end in tragedy for the majority. While the world’s powerful male leaders bicker and fight with each other, there are powerless humans held in detention camps without vaccines and there are Amazonian people putting their lives on the line to get the attention necessary to receive help while their forest burns. While privileged white straight males parade down the street in what will be looked back on history, a disgusting display of power and ignorance, a young woman sails across the ocean to bring attention to climate change, refusing to get on an 8 hour flight because of carbon emissions, trying to raise the alarms that things need to change. While the United State’s President tweets sensitive information out to the public in an act of pure ignorance, a young man is arrested in Hong Kong for being a pro-democracy leader, organizing protests to try and save Hong Kong’s little freedom from communist China.

While traveling in Japan, and immersing myself in a completely new, foreign culture, I’ve been able to plant my feet back down into people, into understanding humanity in a different dimension. I felt such culture shock the first few days in Japan because in the beginning of culture shock mainly you realize how different you are right away. But so soon as time goes on, and the culture shock wears off, you let it all in. You watch the children laugh and play in the park with their dad, you see people bustle to work in their best outfits, you watch a tired man bob his head on the train as the sun falls through the window. Everything is so simply and incredibly human. You’re left with the love of our similarities. You’re left with love.

I can’t help but think about how far away some of our world and national leaders are from planting their own feet down and people watching, coming to the realization that we all have hearts that break and mouths that smile and laugh. Our leaders are teaching us hate, they are using tactics used throughout history like the Nazi party, and civilians around us are supporting it or staying silent about it. They are hoisting Trump 2020 flags and they are spewing ignorance on their social media. The celebration of division has trickled down now into our American culture, hate and walls are being rewarded by those in power. How far gone are we? Can we make sure to stop it, to reignite curiosity and confidence? How long will it take to bring us back to center, to get us back on track? To watch it from an entire ocean away is to see just how far we’ve gone.

We’ll be able to solve our nation’s and the world’s greatest problems once we elect leaders that are progressive, intelligent, level-headed, and human. People who, like us, pushed their children on the swings with a big grin or cried in their car at midnight. People who are ready to work together, globally, without fear, anger, or hatred, to move forward together.

Cheating A Traffic Death

Our exploratory bike ride started off really wonderful. We had scouted out our ride to the park the day before and knew the back roads were mellow and flat. It took a turn for the worst when we decided to keep going past Ueno Park to try and get to Chiyoda Park. We were using Google Maps, which usually has biking directions, but this time there weren’t (red flag?) so we were navigating with walking directions. I failed to remember that when you walk, you can take stairs and shortcuts, but that’s not really the case with bikes. We soon found ourselves lifting our bikes up stairs and in the middle of traffic of an extremely busy and un-bike-able road. We pushed closer and closer to our goal, but I eventually had to call it. Not only were were constantly riding down one way streets the opposite way, but we kept forgetting the backwards roads. We didn’t make it to our goal park of Chiyoda, but we end up back in Ueno Park dehydrated from the humidity and hills, and decided to stop and get a refreshing juice drink. These drinks ended up costing us $18.00 (I mean, they were delicious coconut drinks, but $18?!?!?) In total we biked around 5 miles. Our morning Frogger biking experience prepared us for our next traffic activity that day, go-karting throughout the streets of Shibuya.

MariCAR in Tokyo is a very touristy thing you can do Tokyo, mostly foreigners participate, and I was somewhat dreading it. To be honest, I was really nervous about driving a go-kart through road traffic dressed as Pikachu.. (I mean honestly who wouldn’t be?? Oh, Chad). It only took me around 5 minutes to get into it, and soon the adrenaline ignited my need for speed and soon enough I was flying around corners trying to keep up with our guide. It was such an insane, terrifying experience. We sped through Shibuya crossing twice, speeding at 50mph (or what felt like 50mph). When we got back to the garage and parked our go-karts, our guide said happily, “No one died!”

The interesting thing about the traffic here is that the back roads are mostly small roads that you can walk freely on. There are no sidewalks but suggested painted lines in the asphalt. The back streets built for pedestrians and small cars, which is a really nice feeling compared to cities in the US where the card dominates all of the time. There is less noise pollution once off main roads, it’s safe for bicycles and there is an overall calm to the back roads of Tokyo. But yesterday Chad and I decided to jump into oncoming traffic.

10 Miles In Tokyo

A four-year-old whizzes past me on a little bike while we walk to Ueno Park. Where are his parents? No where, and they don’t need to be, since the streets of Tokyo are so incredibly safe and clean. We are on mile 7 of the day, after waking up at 4am, exploring the neighborhood and closest temple, and signing up for a free walking tour (which unfortunately I had to leave early because I got an extreme migraine and had to lay down in a dark room). Luckily, Chad’s energy is contagious (or is it incessant?) and pretty soon after my headache went away we were on our way to get our first taste of sushi and then another long walk.

We make our way now to Ueno Park, the weather a perfect temperature with the sun setting. I take in the architecture of Tokyo, a light, modern feeling, and a surprising amount brick. As we enter the park, there are a group of Japanese men dressed like Elvis dancing to his music, in a circle, with no one cheering or watching. Curious. We meander throughout Ueno Park as the sun set a cotton candy color. There are food stalls and we eat our fifth fried food of the day. Americans are not the only ones who love fried food. A child starts to scream bloody hell as Ed Sheeran’s song, Perfect, is played by a street musician. The child’s shirt says “Peace”. I’ve noticed that so many children’s clothes are have adorable English phrases on them. I noted one that said “Cute Fun Great”. I love it.

We walk a giant loop around the park, before we head back to the hotel. Mileage is clocking in at 10 miles for the fist day. We end up back to the hotel around 7:30pm, my feet with 5 new bandaids. Just like the energizer bunny, once the battery is drained, Chad’s head hits the pillow, he’s out cold. Day one in Japan, 14 hours of walking, a total of 10.2 miles and a crash onto a pillow.

Foliage First, then Food

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The trees in Japan are so lush, a deep green, growing intertwined together in clusters between rice fields. I find myself assessing the foliage first, no matter where I go. When I first visited California, in 2007, I determined I was in a Dr. Suess book, between perfectly circular rolling hills and the vastly different colorful trees and brush, I fell in love. Italy was a bit different, it’s dry pointy trees and curly olive gardens alongside grape vines growing. The foliage gives me a sense of a place, almost a grounding. So far, Japan’s lush trees look bouncy, they look like I can bounce from one cluster to the other between the rice fields. As we took the train from the airport into Tokyo, I imagined myself bouncing from each tree cluster.

We had a really easy trip to Tokyo. We boarded a plane in Boston for our 14 hour flight, the longest flight either of us have been on. We flew over Canada, Alaska, alongside of Russia near the Arctic. And then, voila, we stepped off the plane into Tokyo.

So far things have been moving so smoothly. Tokyo train station was the most confusing, layers and layers of floors, so many different train lines and colors, and so many people zig-zagging throughout the station, and we could not figure out how to get out. Right away, a Japanese man wearing a colorful blue printed shirt came up to us to ask us if we were lost. We asked how to get to taxis, and he said to go to the right. That was somewhat helpful, but all it did was bring us up an escalator to another confusing floor (presumably closer to the ground floor).

We are staying in Asakusa neighborhood and we deliriously explored last night. We stumbled upon a street filled with small tables and loud conversations and knew we had to grab dinner. I can get really intimidated and shy, being clearly an outsider, trying to find a place to sit down and eat, especially not comfortable yet with Japanese greetings or ordering (thank you Demo for my cheat sheet) but we managed to find something delicious, tuna sashimi and fried octopus. Oishii!

Foliage, then food.